Finally Some Swell

I probably should have gone surfing on one of the micro days earlier this week to wipe the cobwebs off cuz my first wave was a little out of control. I didn't fall, but feet were too far back and close together on the take off and I had to adjust after the bottom turn. But the rest of the session was great.  It was a cold morning, my 3/2 was barely cutting it and I was downright cold the last half hour.