Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Friday, July 21, 2017
The Kook Returns
First time back in the water since my April 10th injury. I took it real easy, my leg felt solid and I'm STOKED out of my mind.
Waves were chest to head high, the water was toasty warm and I had a blast.