Thursday, July 27, 2017
Waiting For The Super Secret Swell
It's been microscopic the last few days, but it looks like Saturday afternoon through Tuesday will have some swell from Hurricane Hilary, although it may be downgraded some. We'll know in the next 24 hours. Meanwhile, I've been slaving away in front of these two glowing rectangles till my butt aches. As luck would have it I'm busy all day Saturday, but the swell really doesn't arrive until later in the day so the morning will still be pretty small. Get ready to surf with 60 of your closest friends.
Monday, July 24, 2017
Last Saturday
A bit slower on Saturday but still a few good waves came through. We still had toasty warm water and mild off shores. Ruben was on the beach taking pictures so there's plenty of FB activity too. My humble wave at the end of this post was the best one of the morning for me.
Friday, July 21, 2017
The Kook Returns
First time back in the water since my April 10th injury. I took it real easy, my leg felt solid and I'm STOKED out of my mind.
Waves were chest to head high, the water was toasty warm and I had a blast.
Waves were chest to head high, the water was toasty warm and I had a blast.
Wednesday, July 12, 2017
Almost There
Actually, I've been given the go ahead to start surfing again. So why am I not on this swell?!?
Well, I spent last week in Maui with family and friends and at the end of the trip I came down with a case of Shingles. The doc said Shingles is an opportunistic virus that lays dormant until the immune system is compromised. She said it is probably a result of the trauma from my calf muscle tear. It's a moderate case and the doc wants me to stay out of the water until the blisters heal up. Apparently, there is high risk of infection. The rash starts at my mid back and wraps around my left side almost to my belly button. I had no idea that Shingles was this painful, it feels like someone punched me in the kidneys not to mention the rash itches like no other. Don't worry I won't post any pictures of it. LOL So I'm looking at another week or two before it subsides. If it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all.....
Well, I spent last week in Maui with family and friends and at the end of the trip I came down with a case of Shingles. The doc said Shingles is an opportunistic virus that lays dormant until the immune system is compromised. She said it is probably a result of the trauma from my calf muscle tear. It's a moderate case and the doc wants me to stay out of the water until the blisters heal up. Apparently, there is high risk of infection. The rash starts at my mid back and wraps around my left side almost to my belly button. I had no idea that Shingles was this painful, it feels like someone punched me in the kidneys not to mention the rash itches like no other. Don't worry I won't post any pictures of it. LOL So I'm looking at another week or two before it subsides. If it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all.....
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| My little beach girls |
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| Me and the better half |
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| Nothing like breakfast at The Plantation House |
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| Best cove for Turtles - Honokeana Cove Not a bad surf spot either in the winter |
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| Cutie pies |
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| My little girl |
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| My daughter and husband |
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| Family and Friends |
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