Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Monday, March 20, 2017
This Is The Life
Paddled out at 6:20 all by my lonesome, joined 30 minutes later by Nick. It never got crowded. Waves were shoulder high + and very playful. I wasn't going to go but I knew that rain and bad wind was in the forecast for tomorrow through Thursday; so I figured I better get on it if I wanted to get some waves ahead of the weather. Turned out to be a brilliant decision. I don't have too many of those anymore. :-)
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