Been Sick

Came down with something last week that I had a hard time shaking. Finally felt good enough for a surf today. I paddled out at 0-dark thirty and it was pretty cold (58˚ water and 52˚ air) but we made the best of it with shoulder high waves, light crowd and off-shore flow.

A Few Waves For The Early Crew

I was really tired this morning after surfing three days straight and especially after yesterday's awesomeness. My arms were like spaghetti noodles. But with back to back storms on the horizon I felt the need to catch a few more waves before things get ugly. That's exactly what I managed to do, just catch a few waves. I was having a good time just enjoying the beautiful morning and watching all my buddies that missed it yesterday get some chest high plus waves in crisp and clean conditions. The south wind was starting to come up as I was leaving but it must of glassed off again as I see on Surfline's cam that it's glassy now.

Man or Dog?

Lowers was significantly bigger today. 

This Is The Life

Paddled out at 6:20 all by my lonesome, joined 30 minutes later by Nick. It never got crowded. Waves were shoulder high + and very playful. I wasn't going to go but I knew that rain and bad wind was in the forecast for tomorrow through Thursday; so I figured I better get on it if I wanted to get some waves ahead of the weather. Turned out to be a brilliant decision. I don't have too many of those anymore. :-)

A Few Fun Waves Between Lulls

I wasn't going to go but the O-side buoy was 1.6@18 so I went to take a look. Better than sleeping in.