Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Saturday, September 5, 2015
Getting Bigger
Fun session this morning. Waves were bigger (shoulder high) and more juice. Caught 10 waves in a couple of hours; a few bombs too :-] Check the video at the bottom and you'll see Fay burning Dave, Haha Dave!!!
Haha! Technically I didn't burn Dave, because just 10 minutes before, he told me to 'just go' on everyone. What a nice guy... ;)
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