Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Saturday, August 29, 2015
Welcome Back Indeed
A little bit of swell in the water today. I went for an extra early go out cuz of the full moon and caught my best wave about 15 minutes into the sesh. According to my nerd rip curl GPS watch it was 209 yards! It was tough going after that with the mega crowd and super long lulls, I only got six more waves.
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