Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Wednesday, November 26, 2014
Way Better Than The Last Two Days
This was yesterday. I thought I posted it, but noticed it was still a draft post this morning. DOH!
A classic fall morning; warm off shores with shoulder high plus waves. Did I mention there was only a few early risers? Will and I traded waves for the first 45 minutes. Surfed until my arms gave out.
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