Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Wednesday, October 8, 2014
Surfing Under The Moonlight
Paddled
out at 5:20; all by my lonesome and caught a handful of runners in the moonlight. Warm water, fun
sized waves and good vibes. Why did I even go to work today, especially since I
haven’t taken a sick day all year?
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