Love This Balmy Weather!

I had to be on the phone at 7:00 but didn't want to miss out either. So I paddled out at O-Dark-Thirty and surfed for 75 minutes. Only caught 5 waves. Two nice long shoulder high runners, a nice long left, a right where I was too deep and a group wave to go in on. It was somewhat lully after the first half hour and it was getting super crowded as I left. Droves of people coming down on my way back up too. The video below has someone getting run over! Hope he's alright.

Fred, with Nick making sure he's on it :-D

Rob setting up for his signature lip bash. 

Bam!

Wow! Looks like a post card. Here's the message on the back:
Go Surf! ...somewhere else