Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Saturday, February 8, 2014
Surfing America Prime
Paddled out at 6:00 all by my lonesome. Caught a couple of waves before Dave and John paddled out. Well, truth be told, I caught one nice long wave and then did a faceplant on the other; but nobody saw me so it doesn't count. :-) Just a little rusty after not surfing for 10 days. First I caught a chest cold and then my wife got slammed with the same but with the added bonus of an ear infection and bronchitis. It's behind us now, but the surf forecast is still weak for the next 10 days. Today the waves were belly to chest high and if you caught the right one it was actually pretty fun. Contest started at 8:00; tomorrow it starts at 7:30 but the forecast is shyeet so I may pass.
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