There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Friday, March 22, 2013

Lumpy And Bumpy

We had a little south wind on our new swell early this morning, but it pretty much laid down by 7:30. Got a lot of fun ones in the bay early and then got sucked over to the point.  Pretty much head high waves until 7:30 and then some bombs started rolling in.  The waves were pretty sectiony on the point; I’ve got a feeling I should have stayed in the bay. 




Here's a little sequence of John Molina








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