Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Friday, October 26, 2012
Swamp Thing
Too
much tide and too little swell.
Everything else was perfect; warm water (68˚), moderate crowd and a nice
offshore flow. The weekend and beyond is
looking pretty bleak, may have to break out the big board tomorrow if I bother
going at all.
Yours truly in front, it was a judgement call (Surfline screen grab)
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