Rich |
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Tuesday, October 30, 2012
It Beats Sleepin' In
Woke up this morning and checked the buoys while the pugs were having their morning constitution. Up a tick from the last few days, so I took a chance and headed down even though a 5.9 high tide was going to shut it down early. Paddled out at 6:20, offshore, warm water (66), full moon and chest high waves. I'm not saying it was great but with just a handful of us in the water and an occasional set with more than one wave we actually had some fun this morning. Rich got the wave of the morning. I was on it too but I was way too deep. He made the right call.
Saturday, October 27, 2012
Steve's Saturday Report
Friday, October 26, 2012
Swamp Thing
Too
much tide and too little swell.
Everything else was perfect; warm water (68˚), moderate crowd and a nice
offshore flow. The weekend and beyond is
looking pretty bleak, may have to break out the big board tomorrow if I bother
going at all.
Yours truly in front, it was a judgement call (Surfline screen grab) |
Wednesday, October 24, 2012
Donald Takayama - RIP
Donald Takayama passed away October 22nd at age 68. He made a few custom boards for me in 80's. I can't say I really knew him but he was a cool guy and built me some great sleds, the one below was one of those magic boards.
Standing on the 56th Street jetty with my DT ready for re-entry (1980 something) |
Sunday, October 21, 2012
Sum Fun
I was going no matter what this morning. It was raining when I left the house but clearing when I got to the parking lot. Paddled out at 6:15 and was alone in the water till 7:00. Well not completely alone, the fishing boat Sum Fun anchored just outside. Don't you think it should be against the law to chum the water that close to where people are surfing? I'm just sayin'..... Waves were small and inconsistent but every once in a while there was a chest high set.
Surfline screen grab |
Friday, October 19, 2012
Steve's Friday Report
In the line up at 6:15...had it to MYSELF until 6:40 when Dave paddled out. 2-4, occasional head high sets, offshore wind, warm water....surfed until 8:45, never more than 8-10 guys out...soooo fun.
Munich Tonight
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