Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Tuesday, September 4, 2012
Glassy And Fun
Almost forgot to post today. The
surf dropped to chest-head high and the water dropped to 65 or so. Only surfed for an hour and a half but had a
blast.
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