Steve |
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Wednesday, March 14, 2012
Bigger, Punchier and More Consistent
The word got out. Steve
and I paddled out in the dark (6:25) and caught a few waves before anyone else showed
up. By 7:30 there were 20 or so of us spread out
between the point and the bay. Plenty of
waves for everyone though. I’m glad I
got to surf the last two days, it’s been sooo good. The weekend looks rainy and I’ve got three
weeks of business travel coming up, so I will be restricted to the weekends
through the first week of April. Oh well,
I suppose I should be thankful that I have a job and that I can surf this
awesome break.
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