It was pretty small at dawn. Dave and I stood there looking at it, taking pictures of the sunrise and then the
one set that makes you go for it came through.
Lucky for us there were more sets.
Most were in the belly to chest high range, but I got lucky and snagged
a couple head high waves. With only four of us in the water there were plenty of
waves to go around. I was running late, couldn’t wait for a set, so you’ll just have to take my word for it on the
size J.
 |
| The one that made us paddle out |
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