Tonights Sunset

Catalina island and San Clemente island.

Under The Weather

Woke up with a sore throat. Steve went to Lowers and caught a few fun ones. Not very crowded either.

Better Than I Thought It Was Going To Be

A few flurries of waves throughout the morning.   Mostly belly to shoulder high and a few plus sets.   Only three guys out for the first hour.   The air was super warm this morning and the wind was calm.  No hood required.  About 8:00 the offshore's started howling, but it only lasted about 45 min. Forgot to use the zoom for today's pictures; D'OH!

Locals

Overhyped

The waves never materialized.  It was lined up, sectiony and small.

It's Free

Nice!


Free Aloha from Dark Fall Productions on Vimeo.

Almost Bailed

It was pretty small at dawn.  Dave and I stood there looking at it, taking pictures of the sunrise and then the one set that makes you go for it came through.  Lucky for us there were more sets.  Most were in the belly to chest high range, but I got lucky and snagged a couple head high waves. With only four of us in the water there were plenty of waves to go around.  I was running late, couldn’t wait for a set, so you’ll just have to take my word for it on the size J.

The one that made us paddle out

Didn't Go

Too much going on at home. Steve says it was "kinda" fun. Here are some pics from Steve.

At Least We Tried

As I said in an earlier post I’ve been working like a rented mule.  Four days of all day meetings with out-of-town business associates and four nights of 5 star restaurants and fine wines.   I was ready to get some exercise and I didn’t care what Mother O was going to deliver.  I care now cuz it was pretty swamped out with the 6.2 high tide and inconsistent waves.  I don’t think there were more than 5 sets in an hour and a half.

Steve

Teahupoo Video

Something to hold you over until there's some waves....


More Surfing Videos

Work Work Work

No chance for me to surf until maybe Friday. From what I can tell there isn't much out there anyway.

So I Guess I Really Missed It Today

The report from Dave and Steve is: Three Hour Session.   Consistent, head high and uncrowded.   I was all prepared to go but…..

Like I’ve said before, sometimes down time is required.   My wife’s father passed away late last night and we are in the midst of putting together the burial arrangements.  Did you know that if you want to get buried in the ground in OC it’ll cost you close to $10K! And that’s the bare bones number!  Here is Richard Arthur Wallace Jr. in 2002 at our family Christmas Party. 

A Few Nuggets

A few belly to chest high waves to be had.   Air 41˚, water 58˚, a pretty good offshore flow and only 7 or 8 guys out.  Very inconsistent.   Dave and I sat on the outside and waited for the set waves;  ended up getting a handful of pretty fun waves.   Glad I brought the big board.   Almost didn’t go because the buoys were not showing much.  But I need the exercise, gained about 5 lbs over the holidays.  Does my new wetsuit make me look fat?

10 Hands

Foggy Leftovers

Not to mention the swamp thing.  Belly to chest high leftovers.  Got a few in the bay before the tide peaked.

No Go Today

Had to go in for follow-up testing at UCI Med Ctr this morning so I missed whatever this swell was dishin’ out.  Surfline Cam wasn’t too impressive;  crowded, not that big and inconsistent?    I did stop by Killer Capo before hittin’ the freeway and it was actually breaking with only a couple of guys out.  It only happens once a year or so. Oh well, another wave will come. 

More Awesome Beach Weather

I didn’t go today but Steve provides the following recap: 2-4 feet, 6 guys out and a little gutless.   This may change in the next 24 hours….

Very Cool Surf Video

Saw this on Surfy Surfy

Where's My Mojo?

Waves were an inconsistent 3-5 and the crowd was thick right off the bat.  The first hour I was either too deep or someone was to my left; not to mention a couple of donkeys along the way.   If I paddled north the set swung south and vise versa.   Fred offered to block for me, but I wasn’t that desperate.  Didn’t get too many waves until I paddled over to the bay.   Then I finally started catching some nice ones.  Stayed out way too long and was seriously late for work.