There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Stoked

Today was waist to chest high, an occasional head high wave did roll through.   Glassy at first and then a slight south wind started to fill in.   The sky was surreal. 
I’m so stoked on my Terry Martin displacement hull.   I got a 7’6”, something that would fit in my truck bed thinking that I would use it as a longboard when it’s small.   I’m thinking of selling one of my other boards now and getting a shorter hull for every day.  
The theory behind the displacement hull can be found in book written by naval architect Lindsay Lord “ The Naval Architecture of Planing Hulls”.   You can download a copy at: http://e-j-m.com/lord-book.html ; I'm sold.  
Of course it doesn't hurt to have a master craftsman like Terry shape a board for you.  I think I read on Surfy Surfy that they estimate he has shaped over 70,000 surfboards in his career.  



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