Balmy

Another spectacular morning, basically a carbon copy of yesterday with lightning in the distance.  The swell is supposed to drop tomorrow.   Oh well.

Wow

Today was amazing. Beautiful sunrise, warm water, off shore, shoulder to head high waves and minimal crowd. Only 4 guys for the first half hour or so. Nice!

There was a photographer in the water today. Her name is Sarah Lee, like the cake. She is quite talented. Check her sites: http://blog.vivantvie.com/ or http://www.flickr.com/people/clashed/ or http://www.facebook.com/vivantvie
 for photos in a few days.

Nick

Stoked

Today was waist to chest high, an occasional head high wave did roll through.   Glassy at first and then a slight south wind started to fill in.   The sky was surreal. 
I’m so stoked on my Terry Martin displacement hull.   I got a 7’6”, something that would fit in my truck bed thinking that I would use it as a longboard when it’s small.   I’m thinking of selling one of my other boards now and getting a shorter hull for every day.  
The theory behind the displacement hull can be found in book written by naval architect Lindsay Lord “ The Naval Architecture of Planing Hulls”.   You can download a copy at: http://e-j-m.com/lord-book.html ; I'm sold.  
Of course it doesn't hurt to have a master craftsman like Terry shape a board for you.  I think I read on Surfy Surfy that they estimate he has shaped over 70,000 surfboards in his career.  

Funny

I've been known to ride a longboard from time to time, especially if it's small.   If you're a little guy and weigh 150lbs or less, yeah you can out run the big boys.   You risk a pounding though.


Lil' Rascal speeding past the longboarders from Proctor Surfboards on Vimeo.

Evening Surf

Surfed from 5:00 until dark.  It was gooood.

Strange

Paddled out at 5:50am in the dark.   Surfed for an hour by myself; on a Saturday in September?????  Granted the waves were small, but there were playful waist to chest high waves to be had (mostly waist).   I caught at least a dozen waves on my Terry Martin quad hull before anyone showed up on the beach.   Lowers had a dozen guys out and I could see a handful of guys out at Cottons.   Clearly I’m not complaining, it’s just been a strange couple of days.

Three

• 30 Minutes Alone
• Chest High Zippers
• 3 Wave Sets
• Perfect Fall Conditions
• Bath Tub Water
• 3 Guys Out

Sorry no pictures today, lent my camera to my wife who’s spending the day at the happiest place on earth with my grandkids. You’ll just have to trust me. So here’s some more pictures of the shrine in Nikko, Japan.

Japan

Workin hard here in Japan.  But did take the time this afternoon to see a 16th century shrine, the Nikko Toshogu Shrine.    The shrine was built by a son to honor his father, a great Japanese Shogun. 

Heading home tomorrow just in time for a few days of flatness.

Work Day

Today was a work day. In between meetings, e-mails, reports and prep for my trip to Japan next week I was able to watch some of the Hurley Pro. While I’m absolutely amazed at the talent on display, I kept thinking “look at all those good waves going to waste”. It must be nice to sit out there and pick and choose the best waves without anyone around you jockeying for position. Am I jealous? You bet I am. As far as I’m concerned Dane Reynolds already won. Did you see Round 3 Heat 10?

http://www.hurley.com/hurleypro/videos.cfm

Bigger – you know what that means…..

The mob has arrived.   With the Hurley Pro and a bit of a bump in the swell it’s only going to get worse.   For some reason I got quite a few set waves today.   I think it’s because I followed Tom and Matt around all morning.

Better than Yesterday

Another brisk offshore morning with chest high waves.   Paddled out at 5:50.  Thought I was the first one out, but there was a guy who said he had been out for half an hour already in the dark.   Never did get very crowded and each set had several waves for a change.    Plenty of waves for all.

Matt

Dave behind the section

That section pealed all the way in

Thanks

Thanks Surfline and Adam Wright for calling today a non-surfday.   Just a handful of guys the first hour and plenty of chest high waves.   By 7:30 it was pretty much over as the tide started to fill in.

Say goodbye to an old friend

Trestles Bridge nearing its end - SignOnSanDiego.com

A Crisp Fall Morning

Air was in the high 50’s, water in the low 60’s and a stiff offshore breeze for the first hour. Waves were fun, mostly in the chest high range (rights and lefts). All the familiar faces were out and then some.

Camping

Took a few days off and went camping at San Elijo State Park.   No surf to speak of but nice weather, warm water and cool sunsets.

My pug Lucy hates the Cardiff kook

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