There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Saturday

I lied, got up early and paddeled out in the dark. Still a bit drained out but more consistent and sets chest to head high.   Greg got the wave of the morning.

Friday, July 30, 2010

TGIF

The surf increased a tad today.  A little drained out but worth the effort.    I'm sure that when the tide filled in it got much better.   I may go a little later in the morning tomorrow.




The plank arrived today.

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Thursday

Almost went home dry, but glad I paddled out.  Waist to chest high waves - spent the morning in the bay catching the ones that swung to the south.   Took some really lousy pics cuz I had to get to the hospital; my daughter is having a baby today.   Grandchild #3!  I wonder if Mike B. is at the same hospital?





I got a good pic of the surfliner.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Yesteryear

I've been searching and collecting historic pictures of south OC for a while now, here are some of my favorites:

Green Surfboard Transport
We should all wear bow ties and white shoes to the beach

Way Back When

Laguna 1902

Aliso Beach Camp 1930s

Back in the Day

SUPs Are Nothing New
Killer Dana - Not Sure when - 1950?

Laguna 1939

Monday, July 26, 2010

A Slow Bleed

Smaller lined up overlapping peaks, some makeable sections:



Sunday, July 25, 2010

Ireland

I was talking to some of the guys at breakfast the other morning about Ireland. Here are some cool pictures I've take of the northwest of Ireland over the years:

Some of you guys could use some help :) 
Directions to Santa Ana?
Yeats' grave in Sligo



More Ireland

A Guinness with a hand made shamrock using the tap
The view of Clew Bay from Crough Patrick
A lonely road near Achill Island

Ireland


Down Patrick Head

A left I surfed back in 2007 near Down Patrick Head

The Atlantic Coast

Groundhog Day

Same as yesterday, but a tad smaller.   Due to family commitments I had to cut it short.


Saturday, July 24, 2010

Saturday

Crowded, lined up, shoulder high, rolly, glassy waves.   Got up late 5:15, almost passed, but was glad I got wet.


Friday, July 23, 2010

After four days in the mid-west watching surfline and crying in my beer I finally got to surf some of the leftovers this morning.   Somebody's got to pay the bills and travel is in my job description.

Today was 4-5 foot, somewhat drained out in the first hour but really fun playful waves.    I think the first Picture is Matt Parker.


Sunday, July 18, 2010

Sunday

You know you're the first one on the beach when you walk your bike through the bushes and get a face full of spider web.   I hate that.  

Paddled out a little after 5am into some peaky head high waves.   Much more consistent than the past few days.  Nice warm water, a spectacular dolfin show and plenty of waves to go around.   Had to leave after a couple of hours to head out of town for a trade show.   Just in time to miss the next swell. 

Here's Phil and Tom:

















Saturday, July 17, 2010

Saturday 7-17-10

Windswell, that's all there was on tap for today.   After the crowd filled in I drifted into the bay a bit and picked off several that swung wide and realed across.    I also had an epic fail on a set wave going left, I hope nobody saw that one.














Friday, July 16, 2010

July 16th

Small inconsistent glassy surf.    I put my two hours in and jetted off to work.   It was a really cool morning though.   There was lightning just before dawn, a killer sunrise and a partial rainbow to the north.   Did anyone see last night's rainbow?



























Below you see a strange species known as hootasaurus longboaratops (hooting longboarders) they were in their indigenous habitat hooting and hollering at every wave they cut each other off on.   Thank God they didn't drift over to the point:

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Still Cold

I know, I know - enough whining about the water temp.   But the cold water promotes bone growth: http://www.eardoctor.org/conditions/surfers-ear.cfm  

The surf was more consistent and a tad bigger today (3'-4').   I was in a rush for a conference call and took some lousy pics inbetween sets:














Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Cold Water?

Damn the water was cold this morning.   I guess the northwest wind last night got the upwelling going.   But mid-July with a water temp of 58 - 60!

I guess I shouldn't complain because there were only 4 guys out with some decent windswell waves to play around in.

Almost forgot to take pics today - got one quick one before heading up:

Sunday, July 11, 2010

Small But Workable

Checked the bouys this morning and decided to ride the longboard.
I was glad I did.   Caught some nice bay waves.








Friday, July 9, 2010

Friday, July 9th

Danger!
              Sharks?   No.
              Thieves?    No.
              SUPs?     No.

KOOKS!  -   There were a couple of guys on longboards hanging towards the bay that were a clear and present danger to everyone in the water.  Hopefully, they won't be back.       

I had one of those days where quite a few waves came right to me.    I stayed a little north towards the point (kook avoidance) and picked off several set waves and a few lefts too.














Thursday, July 8th

Thursday was great the first hour or so - Nice head high waves. 

The crowd thickened as the morning wore on and the waves became less consistent.