There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Thursday, August 20, 2020

Yesterday's Glassiness

 Paddled out at 11:45. It was hot in the sun 80+, the water was 75, and no wind. A little bit crowded but I managed to get a handful of waves. Been a while since I skinned it, felt real good. 


















Monday, August 17, 2020

Monday Morning

 I had a 6:30 meeting with the EU, so I didn't show up at uppers till 7:30. I put in a couple of hours and caught a handful of decent waves. The water was super warm and the air was thick. Pretty crowded too. 














Last Friday

Surfed last Friday with Steve. It was small and slow and I only caught a few waves but it was nice to be back in the water with a reasonable water temperature. 

I kinda surfed Saturday too. I took my 10' glider out at Linda Lane and paddled to T street (caught a wave) and paddled to 204's (caught another wave) and back to LL. I was gonna surf uppers, but it was so crowded and smaller than Friday I decided to go for a paddle instead. 













 

Friday, August 7, 2020

The Last Time I Surfed

 I was downloading some family pics off my camera and low and behold there were some surf pics from July 19th! I remember I surfed some micro, drained out, frozen, junk waves that morning with Steve. There was an up-welling overnight and the water temp was down in the upper 50's. My feet were frozen by the end of the sesh which made the low tide rock dance that much more memorable.  Then while taking pictures the wave of the day came through, LOL. There is an end in sight for this flat spell, looking forward to seeing you kooks in the near future.