It Doesn't Feel Like February

Clear skies, warm air, warm water (for this time of year), and good waves. Had a blast. Looks like the swell is dropping for the next few days. It can't be perfect all the time. BTW I heard yesterday was epic.

Kook For A Day

I had one of those days.  Missed a good set wave, was too deep on 50% of my waves (some I could have made but got burned) and my left foot kept cramping up.  I did mange to get a few good ones but I shoulda had a lot more. Tomorrow is another day.

This is what happens to snakes at uppers ΘΘ

Smaller And Better Organized

Much more fun today. It was best at dawn cuz the swell was dropping really fast.  I caught a couple of nice runners with some shorter rides on waves that outran me.

Big - Mushy - Slow

That was 95% of the waves. Hard to catch with all the water moving around, it was really unsettled. I struggled most of the morning just to catch a handful of waves. Then I caught the one that took me all the way to sand half way to lowers. I called it a day knowing I wasn't going to top that.