Chest High +

Living the dream. Even though my leash wrapped around my front foot on that set wave; DOH!

Fun B4 The Tide Came In

Chest to head high waves and pretty fun the first hour and a half, then the swamp monster took over. My camera battery died after these 5 pics, doesn't do it justice.  You'll just have to trust me.

This Morning

Jim Perryman took this pic today. I really wanted to go this morning but I've got a lot to do in order wrap up the year at work. Duty calls.

Definitely the end of the rainbow:

Why?

Soon after they called it a day at Pipeline last week the wind shifted and......

Uncontestable from SURFING Magazine on Vimeo.

Good And Cold

Water was fine but the air was in the low 40's and the wind was off-shore at 5-8 knots. Waves were chest to head high with good shape. Very few early risers today.

Doubled In Size

Chest to maybe head high waves today, pretty mellow crowd and stiff off-shores. Rode a new board I've had laying around for a while. 6-0 Infinity Mod Quad. I like it; it might be my go-to board....