90 Minutes

Paddled out at 5:30 and surfed till 7:00 when the NSSA contest started.  Shoulder to head high and somewhat lully cuz of the peaking high tide.  Ankle = Good.

Rest Day

Decided to give the ankle a rest this morning.  But later in the day I took my Grandson down for his first trip to uppers.   The NSSA was having a contest in excellent conditions and headhigh plus surf.  Lucky bastards!

Ready to go Pop!

Hard to explain to a 4 year old

Because anarchy has worked so well historically

These kids were trying to catch Leopard sharks with their bare hands

Let's go home Pop

Wiped out

I’m Baaaccckkk

Ankle felt pretty fair today.  Even got a few set waves.  Heeeehaaaaw!  Rode the rehab board and had a blast.  It was chest to shoulder high, off shore and beautiful.   Not as much fun as Rich is having in Kandui though. 

Kandui:

Nice!

AA SNAFU

Well I got all caught up in American Airlines computer SNAFU this week at DFW. After they cancelled our flight, we rebooked for a later flight that was delayed 8 times between 7:15 - 11:30 before they finally canceled it too around midnight! By 1:00am we had a new flight to LAX with United booked for 6:00am (our cars were at John Wayne). No use going to a hotel at that point; so we slept in the terminal. I truly believe they strung us along so they wouldn't have to spring for hotel rooms. A complete and total nightmare, but we made the best of it! Let's just say that beer played a major part of the waiting game.

Texas Sunset

Somewhere on the I-35 last night:

Don't Mess With Texas

Going to Texas for a couple of days (for work).  It's good and hot there which will help me thaw out from this cool gloomy overcast in SOCAL.  Been looking at the two week forecast and have decided to give my ankle a full two week rest.  So we'll see how the ankle feels on or about Friday the 26th.  Meanwhile, here's a few pics from my recent trip to Maui.

Honolua Bay Screamer - I need to go back!

Hole-in-the-head

Kapalua Bay