The surf was a bit smaller today; knee to chest high and way too many longboarders. I probably should have brought my longboard but I rode the KG fish instead. It was a bit mushy, the winds were calm and the clouds were surreal.
OK - I've been lazy and not added to this blog in weeks.
Resolution day.
Today was shoulder to head high - not too crowded and really fun. Surfed for almost 4 hours 11 - 3 and caught at least 25 decent waves. I'm spent for the day. Dinner and bed is all I want. It's supposed to pick up tomorrow - expecting the "crowd" to show again. Seems like I get the best waves in between swells.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Today was "Victory at Sea"; watched for a while and one by one everyone went home.
Not really sure what I'm doing, but who cares; no one will read this blog anyway. I'm JD, one of the regulars who surf upper trestles whenever I can. Today we struggled with the small inconsistent west swell. I got a few.
Here's an old pic of the lagoon after the El Nino of 97-98. You can see an Osprey eating a sparrow in the top branch. Survival of the fittest.