There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Monday, September 11, 2017

We Caught A Few

Waist to chest high glassy waves, not too crowded for the early crew. I love it when nobody shows up.










The Circus is in town 


Friday, September 8, 2017

Tiny, But We Paddled Out Anyway

There wasn't anyone around, so why not. It was glassy, and there were little windswelly waves to ride. Water and air were both around 70 degrees. We actually had fun, not because the waves were any good but just hangin out with friends and catching the occasional wedge. Somebody turned 60 today and his initials are Steve Murakami. You know Steve, he'll paddle out in anything. We couldn't abandon him on his B-day. HA!















Wednesday, September 6, 2017

Dry Run

I rode down early in the off chance that there would be some small zippers to play around on. But I told myself on the way down that unless the shape was really good to just pass. My low back was telling me to take it easy. So after stretching on the beach for 10 minutes and watching the waves I called it a day. It was just crossed-up windswelly crap anyway and the water temp had dropped 7 degrees overnight, also not good for my back. I see they have the women surfing this junk today. Too bad.



Tuesday, September 5, 2017

I Think We Got The Last of It.

With the swell starting to fade the day before the waiting period for the Hurley Pro all I can say is I'm tired, my body aches and I hope a mysto swell shows up for the contest cuz right now the forecast is sad. The good news is Lowers is a swell magnet and those guys will make it look good no mater how small it is.



















Monday, September 4, 2017

You Shoulda Been Here Yesterday

It's a cliche' but spot on today.  I guess everybody heard about it, cuz it was packed at dawn. Too bad the waves were junk. There was a heavy background short period windswell that crossed everything up and the wind wasn't cooperating either. Oh well, there's always tomorrow.