But still playful with even less people than yesterday. I caught one wave that deposited me on the sand between lowers and the shack, I got out and walked back to the channel to paddle back out. I need to take tomorrow off to rest my arms, they feel like jello.
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Wednesday, January 21, 2015
Tuesday, January 20, 2015
Foggy and Good
This morning we had chest to head high waves with a really light crowd. The waves were a little fat but pretty much pushed right through the 6.6 high tide.
Sunday, January 18, 2015
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