Bigger

Bigger and way more crowded than yesterday.  Unfortunately I forgot to bring my A game.  I probably caught 10 good waves this morning without someone in front of me. With the number of sets that rolled through it should have been double that. Oh well there's always tomorrow or maybe this afternoon.

Just Call Me Lucky

Nice to get back in the water, especially after having spent the last three days battling a nasty head cold.  I really needed that salt water sinus flush.  The morning started out a little slow but things picked up as the day progressed.  The crowd was thick, but I still had a pretty OK session regardless.  Then I got lucky and scored two bombs back to back at the end of my session.   The second one I rode all the way to the sand half way to lowers.  Better to be lucky than good.

John Caamano

Outliers is an excellent book if you haven't read it. 

Morning Sickness

We had a good amount of bump in the water today.   Must have been a lot of wind last night through the San Pedro channel.  Stayed out for an hour and a half.  Every day is a gift from God, gotta make the best of it.

Celebrity or wannabe?  Does anyone care?  

Focus JD, Focus!