Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Saturday, October 13, 2012
Friday, October 12, 2012
That Was Some Good Crack
Thursday - Rain Day
Got this picture from Michael yesterday. Looks like there were some choice nuggets to be had on Thursday morning before the downpour. Glassy, uncrowded and fun. The past two days I.ve been stuck in a training course for a new software package for statistical analysis. It was awesome!
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| Surfline screen grab |
Tuesday, October 9, 2012
Small and Inconsistent
Would have been nice to have had more frequent sets but just thankful it wasn't crowded too. Paddled out in the dark, just after 6:00, waves were belly to chest high, water was 70 and the wind off shore. Surfed till 7:30 as I had to be on the phone by 8:00; but found out up top that the meeting was cancelled. Doh! Need to check my e-mail before I go! Next time.
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| New coat of wax on the Blackstar - looking good |
Sunday, October 7, 2012
Steve's Report
Saturday, October 6, 2012
It Was Good (In Between Long Lulls)
Chest high little zippers every once in a while. Nowhere near as good as yesterday, but still fun. I didn't think it was all that crowded today till I looked at the Surfline video. No wonder it took me so long to catch one in. Looks like tomorrow will be inconsistent like today. May take a day off tomorrow.
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| Greg, Greg, Greg |
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| Pretty heavy crowd today (Surfline screen grab) |
Friday, October 5, 2012
Another Day Of Head High Waves
And so the streak continues and it looks like all the way through next week too! Not too crowded today, especially early. Paddled out just before 6:00 in the
dark. Actually caught a couple of
pretty fun waves before I could see much of anything. It seems we have some new Graffiti on the
train trestle: “Ivy League”. Really? ~WTF? That
is one of the worst attempts at graffiti I've ever seen and I grew up in Pico
Rivera!! Note to tagger: Don't feel bad,
a lot of people don't have any talent.
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| I wonder how many hours it took to produce this masterpiece of s#!+ |
Wednesday, October 3, 2012
The Troll Patrol
Almost
ran over a homeless guy sleeping under the trestle this morning; he was not too
happy about it either. HeHe. Paddled out just after 5:30 again. Caught a handful of waves by the light of the
moon and the reflection of light from SONGS before it got light. Super fun chest to head high down the line waves
with 69˚ water and nice off shores. The
air felt chilly so I wore the 3/2. Had
to be on the phone by 8:00 so I only had time to take a few quick pics.
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| Sweet |
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| Gettin a little shaky in my old age - nice wave though. |
Monday, October 1, 2012
0 Dark Thirty
Because
of the full moon and the Santa Ana conditions I've been paddling out at 5:30 the
last few days. I’m not the only one
either, Henning, Dave and Mark were all part of the moon patrol today. I had to be at work in Irvine by 8:00 and I
still got an hour and a half in before it was time to boogie. Too bad it was smaller and less consistent than
yesterday. Wore the 2mm again; still clinging to summer.....
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