Don't you just love it when people look right at you coming down the line and just go anyway? Surfers are the worst! |
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Wednesday, November 28, 2018
Before The Storm
Had to go today cuz the next few days are looking wet and windy. Hopefully, there will be some windows to surf, but it's not looking to good right now. Today was our first NW swell of the season. Chest high plus waves, cooler water (63⁰) the air in the low 50's and hard offshores. It was cold. I was a little rusty at first but caught a few gems after I got tired of falling. 😆
Thursday, November 22, 2018
Wednesday, November 21, 2018
Glass
Another late morning go out. Glassy as all get out with chest high plus waves. There were only 8 or 10 heads when I paddled out; which was nice.
Monday, November 19, 2018
Another Late Morning Sesh
Only surfed for 90 minutes as I had a meeting to get to. Nice to have avoided the cold high tide morning. Not too crowded, chest high waves and a mild NW wind. I'm out till Friday, so enjoy your Thanksgiving and don't forget to set your scales back 10lbs on Thursday night!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)