There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Sunday, October 29, 2017

No Crowd Today

Not much in the way of waves either, except for the occasional nugget. Just me, Phil and a couple of Japanese guys the first hour. Then Brady, Tom and Dustin joined in the fun. All west swell today. Again, put my two hours in and had a blast. After 10 days straight I'm ready for a few days off, I'm sore all over.












Yesterday

A little south left and a lot of windswell to back it up. A definite change in the weather and quality of the surf. But I put my 2.5 hours in and had fun.










Hopefully, he's not contagious.



Friday, October 27, 2017

Winding Down

But still amazing head high waves and no crowd for the second shift. The fog rolled in when I was leaving. This week was probably the best week of surf for me in years. Better than any surf trip I've taken in the last 2 years for sure. Surfed out!










I like yoga