Not much in the way of waves either, except for the occasional nugget. Just me, Phil and a couple of Japanese guys the first hour. Then Brady, Tom and Dustin joined in the fun. All west swell today. Again, put my two hours in and had a blast. After 10 days straight I'm ready for a few days off, I'm sore all over.
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Sunday, October 29, 2017
Yesterday
Friday, October 27, 2017
Winding Down
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