The surf was a bit smaller today; knee to chest high and way too many longboarders. I probably should have brought my longboard but I rode the KG fish instead. It was a bit mushy, the winds were calm and the clouds were surreal.
OK - I've been lazy and not added to this blog in weeks.
Resolution day.
Today was shoulder to head high - not too crowded and really fun. Surfed for almost 4 hours 11 - 3 and caught at least 25 decent waves. I'm spent for the day. Dinner and bed is all I want. It's supposed to pick up tomorrow - expecting the "crowd" to show again. Seems like I get the best waves in between swells.