Aside from the religious significance of the day (I'm a believer), it was also a good day to surf. Not too crowded with pretty consistent chest to shoulder high waves and the occasional head high clean up. A little sectiony but if you caught the right one you were flyin down the line. Just like this one that went unridden:
Thursday, April 17, 2014
Yesterday I had another good set of lab results. I have to go every 6 months. For those of you who don't know; two and a half years ago I was diagnosed with Stage 2 prostate cancer. After the initial shock of the diagnosis I got in touch with an old friend, who had recently gone through this. He encouraged me to drop whomever I was seeing and go see his Urologist, Dr. Ahlering. Within two weeks of calling his office I was in UCI Medical Center to have the offending body part removed. And while the initial wound recovery was incredibly fast (3 weeks and I was back in the water), it took 3 months to gain full control of my bladder and another 9 months before my manhood got back to normal. But in reality those issues are insignificant to the fact that I get to enjoy the company of my wife, my kids, my grand kids, my family and friends, surfing and yes, even work. Like I said, every day going forward is a gift from God and I'm very thankful for it. So I try to make the most of every day and be a good person.
Life is short, so take my advice:
- Find a good GP
- Get regular exams (PSA, Cholesterol, etc)
- If you have hereditary maladies – keep a close eye on them
- Get some exercise and reduce your stress = go surfing as often as you can
Posted by JD at 4:34 PM
Wednesday, April 16, 2014
Tuesday, April 15, 2014
Monday, April 14, 2014
When I saw 1.3 on the buoys I almost slept in, but then the alarm pug went off! So I decided to go just in case; incoming tide and all that. In between some long lulls were a few chest high runners. The morning was crisp and clean, just wish there could have been a little more swell cuz the incoming tide smothered it early.
Posted by JD at 10:00 AM