Friday, August 26, 2016

Crowded at Dawn

Doesn't anyone work anymore? There were at least 15 heads when I paddled out at 5:50. Somehow I managed to get several good waves. It was head high with a little bump on it from the overnight wind through the channel.














Wednesday, August 24, 2016

It's Good To Be The King

What can I say about the the last contest at Chopes? The old Kelly Slater was back in the driver's seat and nobody could touch him. Riding a low rocker board from the past. It was an epic finals day in epic conditions.


Meanwhile, I forgot to post last Monday's session, which after watching the above video, you can just skip:














Saturday, August 20, 2016

Yesterday

I didn't have time to post yesterday and couldn't make down to the beach today due to family commitments. Yesterday was fun, when they came and if you could get into it.  A lot of rollers. I had a grand total of 4 waves for my 90 minute effort.












Wednesday, August 17, 2016

Broken Up Little Lines

More crummy waves with a twist; much cooler water 64°. Actually, the waves were better the last two days if you can believe that. I gave up after an hour. But hey, I got wet and enjoyed another beautiful California morning before shoving off to drudgeries of work. We've got it good here!











Selfie

Putas Rocas 

Dr. Black

A Big Boat

Surf class at Barbwires