Friday, April 18, 2014

A Good Friday Indeed

Aside from the religious significance of the day (I'm a believer), it was also a good day to surf.  Not too crowded with pretty consistent chest to shoulder high waves and the occasional head high clean up.  A little sectiony but if you caught the right one you were flyin down the line. Just like this one that went unridden:












video

Thursday, April 17, 2014

Every Day Is A Gift From God

Yesterday I had another good set of lab results. I have to go every 6 months. For those of you who don't know; two and a half years ago I was diagnosed with Stage 2 prostate cancer. After the initial shock of the diagnosis I got in touch with an old friend, who had recently gone through this. He encouraged me to drop whomever I was seeing and go see his Urologist, Dr. Ahlering.  Within two weeks of calling his office I was in UCI Medical Center to have the offending body part removed. And while the initial wound recovery was incredibly fast (3 weeks and I was back in the water), it took 3 months to gain full control of my bladder and another 9 months before my manhood got back to normal. But in reality those issues are insignificant to the fact that I get to enjoy the company of my wife, my kids, my grand kids, my family and friends, surfing and yes, even work. Like I said, every day going forward is a gift from God and I'm very thankful for it. So I try to make the most of every day and be a good person. 

Life is short, so take my advice:
  • Find a good GP
  • Get regular exams (PSA, Cholesterol, etc)
  • If you have hereditary maladies – keep a close eye on them
  • Get some exercise and reduce your stress = go surfing as often as you can



Wednesday, April 16, 2014

50/50

First half of the sesh: BAD. Second half: GOOD.  The incoming tide did wonders for the drained out BS we had the first 45 min.  Less people today, but the water temp dropped a couple more degrees and I wore my 3/2 today of course, Burrr.















video


Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Cold, Weak And Crowded

That pretty much sums it up.  Can't wait for Spring Break to be over, lots of idiots out there today.









A young dolphin jumping out of a wave - courtesy of Surfline


Monday, April 14, 2014

Lulliosity

When I saw 1.3 on the buoys I almost slept in, but then the alarm pug went off!  So I decided to go just in case; incoming tide and all that.  In between some long lulls were a few chest high runners.  The morning was crisp and clean, just wish there could have been a little more swell cuz the incoming tide smothered it early.