|Jeff on his finless Hot Curl|
Wednesday, July 30, 2014
Rich, Jeff and I were the only ones in the water for the first hour this morning during which time a pod of very active dolphins hung around with us for almost half an hour. There had to be 8 or 10 of them; mostly little ones. It was like being in the pool at Sea World. It would have been nice to have brought the GoPro today just for that; next time. Wave wise there was an occasional chest high set for the three of us to share which made it nice.
Posted by JD at 12:24 PM
Tuesday, July 29, 2014
Small waist to chest high runners. Rob caught the only head high wave that I saw. Earlier he was graciously invited to participate in fisticuffs on the beach by a visitor with an especially nasty attitude. I saw the whole thing. He was upset because Rob had position on him for a left and he thought he was going to go right from way behind the peak, totally unmake-able. What is wrong with people? How can you possibly get that pissed off when the waves are small and you’re not in position for the wave anyway. I loathe these people for harshening the vibe. If we never see him again it’ll be too soon :-]
Posted by JD at 11:00 AM
Monday, July 28, 2014
Paddled out at dawn. 73° air and 70° water with chest high waves. A little wonky but super glassy. I caught a handful of waves during a 15 minute flurry right after I paddled out. After that, for some reason, my rhythm was off and I really struggled to get waves. So I moved up the point to just go for the lefts in an effort to change things up. That was somewhat successful (lots of close outs), but I caught a really nice long left to go in on. Better than nuttin’.
Posted by JD at 11:34 AM
Sunday, July 27, 2014
Super warm and balmy this morning; but made the wrong choice on wetsuits. Wore my 3/2 cuz I couldn't find my 2mm. Found it when I got home in the back seat of my truck. I was roasting all morning. Anyway, waves were shoulder high and playful. But the crowd made you work for it :-)
|It's the Brett show today (This sequence and on the video)|
Posted by JD at 11:11 AM