Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Tuesday, April 10, 2012
A Tad Bigger And More Lined Up
A lot of close outs and lined up waves that were just too
fast to make. Combine that with being super
tired from yesterday and you have a recipe for Donkeys. Don’t get me wrong, I caught plenty of good
waves but eating it on a couple of set waves in front of your bros is always awkward. Yeah,
they were late take-offs but it’s still an ego drain.
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