There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Monday, May 28, 2012

The Terry Martin Project

Here's a taste of the auction at The Terry Martin Project.  I forgot I had taken this video.   This was for the last board signed by Terry.  Enjoy:

Microwaves

Knee to waist high, off shore and warm water.   Paddled out with Steve at 5:15 and the next soul to paddle out was around an hour and a half later.   Every once in a while a chest high wave would come through. It's a good thing I brought the Terry Martin down today; caught a lot more waves than I would have on my short board.   I caught a fun one after I said I was going in, then made the mistake of paddling back out, cuz it took forever to catch another one.  Lowers was definitely better when an occasional set came through but there were 20+ guys on it from the get go this morning.







My goto board when it's tiny. 

Sunday, May 27, 2012

Progress

The weather and water temp were great, offshore and toasty warm water (68?).  Too bad the waves were only belly to chest high and kind of gutless too.   But since we were the only ones on the beach at 5:15 and we saw this one decent wave we had to paddle out.
This is the wave that made us paddle out

Garcia

Sooooo Pitted!


Garcia again. 





Black Sea Bass, about 5 feet long


Probably 75-100 lbs of fish here, hold your nose when you get this close! 

Saturday, May 26, 2012

Windfest

Rode down today just to take some pictures.  At 8am I was the only one on the beach.








Friday, May 25, 2012

Down South

Took a drive with my wife and our pug Lucy to San Diego to check out Bird's Surf Shed.  Since I started surfing in 1968 our equipment has gone through constant evolution.  It's all here. I've owned so many of these shapes over the years and it really took me back.  I even saw a couple of asymmetrical longboards that were from the 60's, so really asymmetrical boards are nothing new. I also had to stop at Patagonia to look at the latest Fletcher Chouinard designs.  A good day because we dodged all the holiday traffic too.




I asked to borrow this 6-2 Skip Frye but it was in for repairs.  Damn it!

Lucy picked her board

I had one of these

and one of these too

All wood corner


Beer can surfboard, waxed and ready to go!

Had to visit the Cardiff Kook - Happy Birthday Austin, whoever you are. 
 

Thursday, May 24, 2012

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

I Tried

Got all ready to go last night as usual.  Had a bit of a sore throat before bed, but thought it would pass.  WRONG.   Woke up with a massive head cold-sinus infection-all over achy feeling.   Dave has it too. At least we didn't miss anything today.  Today's Surfline video is pretty weak.   Really small windswell, at least the wind is calm for now.

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

It’s Good To Be The King

It sure felt like being the King today with just a few people in the water. 
I guess the forecasted eddy kept everyone in bed today.   The south wind did finally show up, around 8:00.  But before 8:00 it was off shore at first, then glassy, chest high and really fun.   There was never more than four people in the water this morning.  Go figure.   It looks like the eddy will be settling in tomorrow and through the weekend too.   Typical Memorial Day weekend.  Is it my imagination or is just about every Memorial Day weekend a windfest? 

Florida Joe






Monday, May 21, 2012

The Terry Martin Project

I had such a good time last night and even won one of the silent auction items, three sets of Future Fins and some T shirts!   Here's a few more pics from the event:
The Eliminators entertaining the crowd

Getting ready for the auction

Donnie Brink won the auction for the board that he shaped for the event after going back and forth in a very exciting exchange with another bidder, it went for over $7,000!  Terry had written his favorite quote on the back of the board. CORRECTION: I talked to Jeff Quam and he said a photographer standing next to Donnie was bidding and won the board.  Every time I turned around it looked like Donnie was doing the bidding, he was just stoked that the board sold for $7,750! 

Jackson Brown



Check that gun on the left - two leash plugs

Terry's van

My silent auction win.  Not sure about those lift wing fins, but I'll give them a try.