There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Friday, September 30, 2011

Leftovers

Small belly to shoulder high waves, off shore flow and pretty crowded too. Managed to snag a few keepers in an hour and a half and went to work with a smile on my face. Better than nothing.




Jerry

One that got away - for shame!

Thursday, September 29, 2011

Missed A Good One

Sounds like I missed some good waves today.   Got more than one communication from friends.  Too bad this swell is dwindling quickly, there'll probably be nothing left tomorrow.  I lifted this photo of this morning from my buddy Mike's blog "Surf A Pig".   Check it out, lots of cool stuff on old school longboards.  

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Small With An Occasional Set

Tiny with excellent conditions, warmer water and not too crowded.   Managed to make the best of it with the 6-0 uber plank.  By 7:30 the tide was taking it's toll.   It looks like the new swell will not arrive until later in the day tomorrow.   Gotta work anyway, maybe Thursday.




Monday, September 26, 2011

Small, Fun And Deserted

Just four of this morning enjoying belly to chest high waves. Some reeled into the bay.  My arms are killing me from all the paddling.  I probably caught close to a dozen waves in an hour and a half.  By 8:00 the tide had pretty much killed it, so the pictures aren’t that great.   You'll just have to trust me.




Sunday, September 25, 2011

A Few Fun Waves

More of the same, chest to head high on the sets.   Maybe a tad more consistent than Saturday.   Definately a lighter crowd and a little warmer water too, 65˚ - 66˚.   Next week's forecast is not looking too good.....





Yesterday

Too busy to post yesterday.   Fun little chest to shoulder high waves, a little texture now and again with glass inbetween. 


The bay was the way


Friday, September 23, 2011

Muddy Waters

Actually red tide. It had an odor, like stagnant salt water. The waves were inconsistent, belly to chest high, a little sectiony and the water temp dropped down to 62˚-63˚. Too many people for the number of waves pulling through. The guys were telling me that yesterday there were only 6 guys out. Go figure.




Thursday, September 22, 2011

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

I Called It

Slater won the Hurley, what a surprise.   He always kills it here.

Paddled out in the dark this morning.  Not exactly dark though, there was florescence in water again.   Not only when the waves broke but when my hands cut through the water too.   Very cool.  Uppers wasn't that great this morning.  Caught a couple of shoulder high waves early, then face planted on a set wave, just got too excited and leaned too hard into the first turn.   Then it got really inconsistent.   
Fahday

Monday, September 19, 2011

Almost Gave Up

Was on the beach at 5:45 in the dark and not seeing anything that looked ridable. Just as I was leaving I stopped to see a small set roll through. Just then Phil and Fahday walked up and I turned it around and went out. It was small, a little inconsistent and waist to chest high. But with just six guys out and warm water it was actually kinda fun. I believe the Uberocity of my Plank saved the day.

I didn't even post Saturday, the surf was zip, zero, nada with south wind. 





Beware of the locals

Thursday, September 15, 2011

Caught A Break Today

Early morning meeting was cancelled so I got to get an hour and a half in after all. The surf was small, inconsistent and too crowded for the number of waves coming through. Only got a half dozen decent waves, kept taking off too deep and/or getting jacked.  But it was still better than working. The good news is the water is toasty warm and another wave will come.  I’ve got a feeling the crowd will hang with us until the Hurley Pro is outahere a week from Saturday.  Damn contests, who needs 'em, everyone knows Kelly's going to win again .





Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Slightly Smaller And Less Crowded

Still some head high waves and the warm water continues (wore the 2 mil today). Caught a bunch of waves in the first 45 minutes when there were 4 and 5 wave sets. But then the incoming tide had its usual effect on consistency and the crowd factor played in as well. We won’t talk about my full fledged donkey on my second to last wave. Only surfed till 7:30 today, got to push the wagon. In fact, work will keep me dry for the next couple of days. Why couldn’t I have been born rich instead of so good looking ;).





Tuesday, September 13, 2011

The Crowd Increased Exponentially

Paddled out at 5:40 thanks to the full moon acting like a spot light again. Solid offshore flow to start and really the best waves were before 6:45 when the tide started filling in. Caught several head high waves deep into the bay and some really good lefts too. But it was like I blinked and there were 50+ guys in the water.




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